Pool tiles.

Waterline vs full pool lining. The waterline tile (the strip at the water surface) is the most visible tile on a pool — it catches splashing, chemical variation, and light. Pool-floor tiles require full submerged rating. Pool surrounds and coping need to be slip-rated and UV-stable.

Mosaic for the pool interior. Mosaic tiles (50×50mm, 100×100mm) are the traditional pool tile — they flex slightly with the pool shell movement, accommodate curves at the pool base, and provide good grip underwater. Glass mosaic adds sparkle; ceramic mosaic is more forgiving on budget.

Porcelain for the pool surround. Large-format porcelain pavers (600×600, 600×1200) around the pool edge read luxuriously and are easy to maintain. They must be anti-slip rated (R11 or P4/P5 for pool areas) and UV-stable.

Colour and the water. The tile colour dramatically affects how the pool water reads. Whites and light blues produce a bright aqua water colour. Dark blues and grey-greens produce a deep lagoon effect. Order samples and test them submerged in a bucket of water.

Always use a pool-rated adhesive. Standard tile adhesive will fail in constant-submerged conditions. Use a two-part epoxy adhesive or a flexible, water-resistant cement-based adhesive rated for pool use. Your pool tiler will specify the correct system.

Grout for pool tiles.Epoxy grout is the standard for pool interiors — it's chemically resistant, waterproof, and won't absorb algae or staining. For pool surrounds (above water), a quality cement-based grout sealed after installation is acceptable.

Expansion joints. Pools move. The shell expands and contracts with temperature. Every pool tiling job requires expansion joints at regular intervals — typically every 3–4 metres. Never skip these.

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